Unveiling the Beauty of Native American Jewelry: An Adventure in Collecting

The draw to the Land of Enchantment has always been a strong one for me, even from New Jersey. After each trip, I returned home with countless photos of New Mexico’s breathtaking landscapes and a few new pieces of Native American jewelry to add to my growing collection. Wearing those pieces was a daily reminder of my visits and of how deeply I’d come to love NM.

As my collection grew, so did my understanding of silversmithing and the difference between authentic and imitation work. Quality pieces are typically made from sterling silver and are marked with “925” or “Sterling Silver.” Some pieces also include the maker’s stamp, though many older works do not. In the past, some artists didn’t use a hallmark stamp at all, instead etching their names by hand with a scratching tool. The absence of a maker’s mark doesn’t necessarily diminish a piece’s value—collectors often recognize an artist’s work by its design alone.

Examples:

• Stamped sterling: 

  
  

Image of the back of a piece of jewelry with a stamped Hallmark.

“STERLING” is stamped into the back of this piece, and the maker’s name—Wes Craig—appears inside the feather.

• Unsigned but valuable: 

image of the back of unsigned earrings

image of the front of the unsigned earrings

• Carl & Irene Clark Navajo Silver Micro Inlay Yei Dangle Earrings—unsigned yet valued at approximately $4,000. 

• Hallmarked pieces:   

Hallmark for Jim Harrison, Navajo Silversmith.

Jim Harrison’s work is stamped with his name, “Sterling,” and “HAND MADE.”

Etched hallmark for Franklin and Verna Tahe.

Another example shows an etched hallmark used by Franklin and Verna Tahe.

I’ve always worn my jewelry with pride, and whenever something caught my eye, I made it a point to learn about the artist behind it. It didn’t take long to notice the difference between reputable shops—those that truly understand and honor the art form—and those that simply sell items with little knowledge of their origins.

Fortunately, I made some wonderful choices along the way and ended up with genuine pieces that carry both cultural and monetary value. Supporting Native American artists has always been important to me, and trustworthy stores play a crucial role in that effort. They ensure the authenticity of the work and help guarantee that artists are fairly represented and compensated. That’s definitely the case at Tanner Tradition where the owner is a fifth-generation Native American trader who grew up in Gallup, NM. His uncles still have galleries in Gallup and he has other family members who are actively engaged in working alongside Native Americans to represent their crafts.

Sadly, not every store upholds those standards. Some misrepresent their merchandise, offering mass-produced imports that were neither made in the U.S. nor crafted by Native American artisans. There are also those who claim to be selling genuine turquoise but instead, they are selling what is referred to as block turquoise.  Block turquoise is not “real turquoise.” It is something that has been marketed incorrectly as such and it’s either a dyed plastic material or crushed turquoise mixed with resins and plastics that are hardened and then cut in to blocks. Another fake stone that is sometimes sold as turquoise is Howlite that has been dyed to look like turquoise.

I have learned that there are several things to look for to help distinguish the fakes from the real thing when purchasing turquoise jewelry.  Real turquoise will be more expensive than jewelry with imitation stones. The adage of if it sounds too good to be true really applies here! Also, the color of the stone matters! Turquoise will be a shade of blue, green or combination thereof. Turquoise derives its color from a hydrous copper and aluminum phosphate mineral. Its vibrant blue to green colors come from the presence of trace amounts of copper or iron in its chemical composition. Natural turquoise can also contain other minerals, such as quartz and pyrite, which form a patterned matrix. Turquoise does not come from mines that produce stones in colors such as pink, yellow, or purple.

Tests can also be performed including using acetone on a hidden area of the stone to check for color transfer or heating a needle and pressing it against the stone. If the stone melts, it’s not real turquoise!  

Image of real turquoise showing the variety of matrix patterns and colors that occur in natural stones.

Image of fake turquoise stones that have a uniform color and too uniform density in their matrix pattern. They are most likely block.

Real turquoise has a natural matrix of veins (black, brown, or tan). Fake versions may have a painted-on or overly uniform matrix pattern. If they look too perfect, there is probably a good reason for it.

A reputable seller will provide information on the stone's mine and provenance. If they cannot it could be due to the lack of knowledge of the seller. There are a multitude of possibilities of turquoise mines. Just because someone is unaware of what type of turquoise is in a piece of jewelry, that doesn't mean that the seller is disreputable. Sometimes the artist just doesn't tell the dealer what type of turquoise he or she has used in the piece of jewelry that has been created. What's most important at that point is whether it's pleasing to you as the purchaser.

This is an image of the Santa Fe Palace of the Governors portal. Native American artisans apply for licenses to show and sell their jewelry to patrons. Here they can interact with anyone interested in their creations.

One of the most rewarding parts of visiting New Mexico has been meeting the artists themselves. Whenever I had the chance, I spoke directly with the creator of the piece I was buying. That personal connection adds so much meaning—and it’s just one more reason New Mexico truly is enchanting. After all, how often do you get to meet the person who handcrafted the jewelry you’re proud to wear?